Thursday, November 17, 2011

Kuala Lumpur

I took an unexpected trip to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia when Indonesia refused to extend my visa.  Indonesia only allows a non-resident to stay for 60 days without an extension.  Since I have a multiple entry visa, I had to leave the Country, and then return to finish my program and research.

Kuala Lumpur, the capital city of Malaysia, is fascinating and diverse.  Women in burkas (I suspect mostly Middle Eastern), others in short shorts, Westerners, Africans, Indians, Chinese and Malay people traverse the crowded streets.


A woman in a form fitting burka
  covered face
bright purple leggings
  eyeslit eyes
bare feet in sandals

what is the point?

always a deconstruction
  of the construction
a way out even while
in

the drive to express
me into the more than me
to take a place
while taking a part
apart!

KL has multiple skyscrapers and exclusive shopping malls with high-end stores.  Malaysia has been one of the best economic performers in Asia since winning its independence from Great Britain in 1957.  It's major exports are electronic products, machinery, gas, petroleum and petroleum related products.  It has a relatively large technology sector, and actively promotes medical tourism (with numerous commercials on television!).

From my hotel window:


From the ground:


Malaysia is ethnically composed of Malay (just over 50%), Chinese (about 25%), Indigenous (about 12%) and Indian (close to 8%).  Sixty percent of the population is Muslim, 19% Buddhist, 9% Christian, 7% Hindu, and the remainder, the amorphous "other."  Throw in a large dose of commercialism and this is what you get in a 60% Muslim and 19% Buddhist Country:




Batu Caves is a sacred Hindu shrine located on the outskirts of KL.  The Shrine, which consists of a series of cave temples set in a limestone hill, is dedicated to Lord Murugan, an especially sacred deity for the Tamil people.


Monkeys guard the entrance when not otherwise preoccupied:




Temples:





I was blessed by an Indian sadhvi (holy woman) with hair in dreadlocks to the ground 


while making an offering for my friends


May the light and love of the most precious divine greet you and hold you in the endless depths of mercy!

Reflection # 5

This week we reflect on the work in Indonesia of cultural anthropologist Glifford Geertz.

Reflection #5

Clifford Geertz, a scholar in the field of cultural anthropology, studied and wrote about the religion of Java in the 1950s.  One of his primary sites of field research was Modjokuto (or “Middletown,” the real name is Pare) a relatively small, multi-ethnic (24,000 Javanese and 2,000 Chinese), agricultural town at the edge of a great rice plain in east central Java.  Through the lenses of history and ethnography, Geertz observed a Javanese society intent on development and nation building, as it recovered from war, internal conflicts, Japanese occupation and Dutch colonialism.  Using the constructs of typologies to organize his data, Geertz identified three “main social-structural nuclei” in Java—village, market and government bureaucracy—which he broadly (and non-exclusively) associated with variants of Javanese Muslim religion and social class (5).

The religious beliefs of the Javanese village consist of a syncretic blend of animistic (belief that we share the world with spirits), Hindu-Buddhist and Islamic elements.  This so called abangan religious tradition is predominant among village peasants and proletariat.  Santri is a more orthodox variant of Islam especially widespread among merchants and wealthier peasants.   The association of the Javanese trading element with a purer Islam is unsurprising given the introduction of Islam to Java as part of a great trade expansion (5-6).  The prijaji tradition is identified with elite heritage.  It is strongly influenced by the Hindu-Buddhist traditions of earlier Javanese courts (high art and refined etiquette), and mysticism.  In the modern era, prijaji is associated with the elite, and with a white collar, well educated, administrative bureaucracy (6).  

Geertz explores the antagonisms between these various religious/class orientations, while noting the ways that nationalism and Javanese customs of harmony, cooperation and polite suppression of feeling mediate conflict (366).  He seeks to interpret cultural symbols in order to elicit deep meanings and reasons, to make sense of experiences and interdependencies, and to better understand the circumstances in which modernization and development occur.  He claims his study as merely descriptive (7).

 I greatly appreciate Geertz’s contributions to anthropology, though again, I am drawn to reflect on the silenced voices of women.  Geertz writes that in an exception to a general policy of non-interference between the abangan and the prijaji, prijaji  women are concerned with unhygienic birth practices, and with rituals and practices (washing the groom’s feet, polygamy, degrading art forms) which concretize the inferiority of abangan women.  Without offering any woman’s voice as supporting descriptive evidence, Geertz characterizes the prijaji women’s gestures as “half-hearted,” and then dismisses them as ultimately selfish.    

In another example of women’s silenced voices, Geertz cites as an example of an integrating nationalism, The Day of Women’s Awakening.  Before 22 December 1928, women’s groups were focused on women’s advancement.  On the day of awakening, women, “fully conscious of their responsibilities, merged their movement with the national struggle (369).”  On 22 December 1953, the women’s movement was still focused on the “glory” of Indonesia and “its people” (370).  Lelia Ahmed and Chung Hyan Kung write about the co-option of women’s independent interests in cultural and national movements in Egypt and Korea, respectively.  Both attribute this assimilation of women’s separate interests to patriarchal culture.  In what ways does the Day of Women’s Awakening memorialize national unity, and in what ways does the day memorialize the continued submission of women under patriarchy?            




Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Bali High

Okay, let's play the Sunday newspaper picture game.  Can you spot three BIG differences between Yogyakarta, Java (where I will spend most of my time in Indonesia, and pictured in previous posts) and Sanur Beach, Bali?


Shrines and offerings are everywhere in Sanur (Hint: The majority religion is not Islam):

 
Happy days are here again:

For cows . . .

and for me . . .
The How Are You (Apa Kabar) Rest.

A cappuccino!


Ooh la la, the beach scene--shorts, bathing suits, and wait . . . is that Flipper (aka Alpha)?





For my Mom, Rita:
 
 
 
For the always lovely Lunabells:
 
 
So, you got the three differences . . . right?